Tuesday, October 10, 2017

Day Nine: Erfurt and Oktoberfest

Luther went to college in the big city of Erfurt with 20,000 as its population. Erfurt was a major town because it was at the crossroads of two major routes: the King’s Road and the Salt Road.

There were always people coming and going in Erfurt. We learned a few things about the town in those days. First, since no one could read, houses were marked by pictures, i.e. A parrot, golden swan, etc.

Second, since many houses brewed their own beer at different times, beer holes were created in each house.

When there was straw in the hole, it meant brewing had commenced and everyone was invited to buy some. A brewery sill uses the beer holes, keeping straw in them at all times.

Third, they were a wealthy city because they made an expensive blue dye, called King’s dye. It was an extensive process of pounding the leaves of a special plant

Making powder

Then mixing the powder with male urine (women’s urine had too much estrogen in it). How did they get the urine? Well, after you had lots of fresh brewed beer, you would go to a particularly vat to relieve yourself, and it became a perfect form of recycling good beer. The powder and urine dried out (which of course would smell awful) and then used as expensive dye. By the way, this is how the phrase “stinking rich” came to be.

Because of its size and wealth, Erfurt was a place where 4 monasteries were established: the Franciscans, Benedictines, Dominicans, and Augustinians. In addition, 70 churches served its 20,000 inhabitants. Erfurt was a big city with lots of people, trade, spirituality, and the best University around. Why? Back in 1392, the monks were the only educated people. Given the 4 monasteries, why not establish a University with the monks as the professors? Its reputation quickly grew.
Martin received his Bachelor Degree in one year. He entered the Masters program in Law, following his father’s wishes. This is building housed the University at the time.

The stained glass windows symbolize the four areas of study you could choose from: liberal arts/philosophy represented by light, medicine represented by the snake, law represented by the scales, and theology represented by the Christian fish. Can you find which window matches which area of study?

Luther would attend this University Chapel everyday as part of his school rhythm, and later preach there when he returned to visit.


Like most college students, he would visit his parents often (maybe to do laundry) in Mansfeld City and upon returning to school from a visit home, he was caught in a thunderstorm. Maybe it was in an area like this.
He was so afraid for his life he prayed to St. Anne (the patron saint of the miners in Mansfeld City)

Asking for protection, he made a bargain with God. “God, I will go into the monastery if you spare my life.” Luther survived the storm and two weeks later he entered the monastery, much to his father’s disappointment.

In 1505, he celebrated a last meal with his friends, walked down this path with the monastery on the left,

went to this door, and told them they wouldn’t see him anymore. He knocked on the door of the Augustinian Monastery, went in, and it shut behind him. His friends were shocked at such an unexpected move.

Luther, like all novitiate, entered a one year probationary period before he took monastic vows in 1506 and then was ordained in this Cathedral up on the hill on the right in 1507.

 
He was ordained laying on the stone slab altar in front.
 
He then celebrated his first mass at the monastery on May 2, 1507.


The monastery chapel has a ledge built in to the side of the building. Since this was a busy street, monks (maybe even Martin Luther?) would preach and hold mass outside of the monastery for the people. Talk about going outside the walls and meeting people where they are!

The stained glass windows are original

and Luther would often see the white rose in that glass. A small replica of that section of the window is here.

When Luther was asked to create some kind of symbol for himself, he chose this rose and put a cross in a heart at the center. It is now known as the Luther Rose.

Life was hard in the monastery. Brother Martin slept only 4 hours per night and ate little. He attended six worship services per day – before dawn until after midnight. The cells were small

He wore a black, scratchy garb.

When he confessed his sin, which was often, he was given penance. One of the punishments was to beg for money at these stairs. They are now called “Luther’s Steps” because he was seen here so much.

Luther thought a lot about the afterlife, “Will I go to heaven or not?” He was obsessed with confession and making sure all his sins were forgiven. He would lay in the snow would no covers, fast, perform self-flagellation, and be at the confessional at all times.

He always felt unworthy and was never sure of his salvation. This continued until Wittenberg when he was studying the book of Romans for his University lectures.
He was chosen to study theology, and get his mind off how awful he was, and it worked. He threw himself into his studies, then went to Wittenberg to lecture for a year, back to the monastery and then was sent on a pilgrimage to Rome where he became disillusioned with the priests and church practices.
Luther and his fellow monks met in this room where they got their work orders from he day and participated in some chants. The acoustics are amazing!

Anyone know what the Latin written on the organ means? (Come on, King’s Grant people!)

Luther came back several times to Erfurt. He preached at many of the churches here

And is celebrated by the city in many ways.

Today is October 3, Reunification Day, when East and West Germany joined once again. Actually, that’s not the date they were reunified. The real date is November 9, but since in history that was also the date the Nazi’s led the boycott and destruction of Jewish businesses, the people did not feel they should celebrate on that date and so chose October 3. Oktoberfest was celebrated for several weeks so for this holiday, we decided to join the locals.


The Ferris wheel was so much fun

But the real action was in the hall where a band was playing. We got there at 9:30, just in time for them to close! But we did get a few pictures of and with the locals.


So glad we got to participate in Oktoberfest while we were here. And we found German Sponge Bob, but for copyright reasons they made him burnt toast. Not quite the same!


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