Day Two: Strasbourg, France
   Strasbourg was a quaint little town that was easy to walk around. Why am I in Strasbourg? Here is a quote from one of my sources, “The Reformation quickly gained a foothold in Strasbourg. The Protestant preaching of Reformers such as Wolfgang Capito, Caspar Heidi, and Matthaus Zell found favor among broad circles of the city’s inhabitants. When the City Council forbade Zell from preaching from the cathedral pulpit in 1522, the city’s carpenters constructed a portable pulpit to enable him to continue preaching God’s Word in public. The appearance of Martin Bucer cemented the grip of the Reformation in Strasbourg, and the city’s importance and prestige spread throughout Europe.” So I set out to explore the places and people that put Strasbourg on the Reformation map.
    I began with Saint Thomas Church, the main Protestant church in Strasbourg since 1524, who also had the best welcome sign I have ever seen at a famous church.

Martin Bucer was the pastor here from 1531-1540. Let’s pause for a brief understanding of Bucer’s role in the Reformation. Bucer’s passion was to bring people together and try to bridge differences. After being influenced by Luther in 1518, he renounced his monastic vows and dedicated the rest of his life to the Reformation. We acted as a mediator between the two great Reformers, Martin Luther and Ulrich Zwingli, who differed on their understanding of the Eucharist. He worked closely with Philipp Melanchthon whom we will meet in two days. Finally, Bucer even believed common ground could be reached between Catholics and Protestants. He attended several conferences organized by Holy Roman Emperor Charles V to find areas of agreement and peace but it was to no avail. Bucer is buried here in St. Thomas Church.

Luther really wanted to preacher here in Bucer's church, so I said it was OK.
 
Outside the Reformation, the church is most famous for its historic and musically significant organs, the 1741 Silbermann organ played by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart in 1778.

The great organist Albert Schweitzer played many recitals here. I have to admit the Renaissance tomb that is notable for its realistic depiction of the decaying corpse is a bit creepy.

The enormous lat Baroque mausoleum built in 1777 by Jean-Baptistery Pigalle is spectacular.

The most fascinating part of this church, as with most churches in Strasbourg, is that both Catholics and Protestants share church facilities. While this might sound “on earth as it is in heaven” with everyone getting along, the truth is it was a mandated compromise. You see, almost all churches in this area were Protestant in 1529 when the city council banned traditional mass. But when this area was annexed to Catholic France, a dilemma arose. Would Strasbourg be Protestant or Catholic? The answer: both. So almost all churches, including St. Thomas, built a wall in the sanctuary with part going to the Catholics and part to the Protestants. To this day, the same building houses both a Catholic Church and Protestant church, in different parts of the building, the right hand side is the Protestant and the left hand side is the Catholic. Below is the white wall built between the two churches residing in the same building.



Little France is an area of canals and distinctive timber buildings that creates its own island in Strasbourg.

This “Venice of the North” was a place of banishment when small pox hit the town as well as syphilis.

It is now one of the most expensive places to live in Strasbourg. Covered bridges make it possible for people and goods to go from the mainland to the island.

But the main attraction in town in The Cathedral Norte-Dame. This church dates back to the 11th century. The 466 foot spire was completed in 1439 and was the highest in Western Europe until the 19th century.


The church was Protestant from 1529-1681 when it reverted back to Catholic. The pulpit is ornate with beautiful stained glass windows and the organ pipes which hover high above the congregation.





 The claim to fame here is the Astronomical Clock built in 1843 to replace an earlier clock, is 18 meters high and one of the largest in the world. This is the church Zell was kicked out of when he started preaching Reformed ideas.

Not many people know that apart from being the inventor of the first mechanical, movable printing press in Europe in 1439 and the publisher of the Gutenberg Bible in 1455, Gutenberg lived in Strasbourg between 1434 and 1444, where he was an apprentice goldsmith, set to follow in his father’s footsteps.


A statue stands in Gutenberg Plaza of the man that changed communication as they knew it. He is holding a piece of parchment on which is inscribed the words “Et la lumiere fut” (And behold, there was light) from the Book of Genesis.

Gutenberg’s invention was one of the major factors that made the Reformation possible. Luther and I also stopped to get some great chocolate with the imprint of her Cathedral on it. Yum!!

But in my opinion, my fascination with Strasbourg was Calvin’s influence who lived here for three years. Calvin left for Strasbourg in 1538 at 39 years old, when Martin Bucer asked him to take charge of the small community of French-speaking Protestants. Calvin is still honored at the local University as the only French speaker portrayed in the full length statues at the top of the building.

He is accompanied by Zwingli, Melanchthon (who we will still meet later and became a friend of Calvin), and Luther is just around the corner. He is also honored by having a street named after him.

Calvin preached at several churches in Strasbourg: St. Madeleine (now a Catholic Church),

St. Nicolaus,

and the church he was pastor of from 1540-41, Temple Neuf.

From 1248-1531 the site of the church today was Strasbourg’s Dominican monastery, a major hub for German mysticism. It was here that Meister Eckhart lived from 1313-1324 as well as his disciple John Tauler who led a late medieval renewal of Christian faith. Calvin and Bucer continued that renewal Spirit leading the Reformation on the same site. While the church in 1540 no longer exists, it was resurrected after being bombed in 1870. Yet walking into this church, I couldn’t help but see Calvin here.

I even asked permission to get in the pulpit, knowing it wasn’t exactly the one he stood in, but it was as close as I could get. Luther would have to take a back seat this time; I was going in the pulpit.
 

Calvin was called back to Geneva in 1541, but he left an indelible mark on this city.
Between Bucer, Calvin, and many others, Strasbourg definitely had a major role to play in the Reformation. Luther and I felt privileged we had a chance to visit.

Day One: Basel, Switzerland

(Disclaimer #1: Folks, I have spent hours upon hours trying to resolve problem after problem. I think I finally got it.)

(Disclaimer #2: Since this trip is focused on the Reformation, most of the blog will be dedicated to the people and places associated with that movement (and may sometimes read like a history lesson). There is, of course, much more to each place than just their significance to the Reformation. I also do not claim to be an expert of the Reformation or the cities I visit. I am sharing my understanding from the research and information I have but ask your forgiveness if I get a few facts wrong!)

After an overnight flight to Zurich, Switzerland and then a one and half hour train ride, Luther and I were ready to tackle Basel around 11:30am. Why Basel for a Reformation tour? Basel was heavily involved in the Reformation movement starting in 1521 with the city council’s renunciation of their obligations to the Bishop. The two most famous people associated with reforming the church here are Erasmus of Rotterdam and John Oecolampadius.
Luther and I start at Tinguely Fountain where playful metal sculptures come to life and “dance” in the water. No, this has nothing to do with the Reformation, but it was a cool place to take a break and soak in the atmosphere.

In Basel, the old and the new are seamlessly woven together. Around each corner there was another breathtaking spire or historical spot.

The first few places I visited were associated with Erasmus of Rotterdam. Erasmus was born in Rotterdam (today’s Netherlands) but lived much of his life in Basel.

He was a progressive priest that started to question the teachings of the Church. He is nicknamed the “Prince of the Humanists” and was the first to explore and edit old texts according to the historical-critical method. His most influential accomplishment was a new translation of the New Testament from the original Greek text into Latin published in 1516. This Latin Bible became the basis of many Protestant translations of the New Testament, including Luther’s translation of the Bible into German.

Erasmus was a trailblazer for the Reformation with his Humanist background and passion for biblical scholarship, but he was not a full fledged Reformer himself. He wanted to change the church from the inside out and abhorred extreme positions and violent protests. Martin Luther considered him a traitor for refusing to side with the Reformation. Erasmus boarded a ship in 1529 at the Schifflande (docks)

and wrote, “Before the Luther’s came I was welcome there. But as soon as they realized that I would never participate in their troublemaking, let along become their leader, some wicked and insolent people began to defame me.” Zwingli, on the other hand, himself a humanist, held Erasmus in high regard.
I visited the Froben publishing shop that printed most of Erasmus’ writings including this work which is dated 1521.

Basel was central to the Reformation because of their printing shops, but more on that later. The Erasmus House was not only the place where printing took place, it was the place where Erasmus died. He is buried in the great catholic cathedral in town, Basler Munster, where his epitaph lies. 

His estate is in the Historical Museum, but alas it is closed on Mondays.
A side note about the Historical Museum. The building used to be a monastery of the Order of St. Francis, nicknamed the Barefoot Monastery (perfect for a barefoot preacher!). This place and the plaza in front was a popular gathering spot for Protestants in the 1500’s. After the dissolution of the monasteries, the monastery was turned into a simple Reformed house of prayer.

Printing was a burgeoning industry in Basel in the 1500’s. The easy access to water, used to make paper, make Basel the perfect place to house printing presses. Although significantly changed in the las t 500 years, this Wesse Gasse Street is where the printing shop of the city’s most famous printer was located. Adam Petri began to print Luther’s writings early on; in 1517 he printed the 95 thesis and in 1522/23 he represented Luther’s translation of the New Testament in German.
 
 Suffice it to say, the Reformation would never have been as world changing as it was if it weren’t for the printing press and printers that distributed these new ideas about church and theology. Luther relied heavily on Basel to make his writings known. John Calvin’s Institutes of the Christian Religion were also printed in Basel in 1536. There is still an old fashioned printing shop today but alas, it’s closed on Mondays.

The distinctive red sandstone Town Hall was and is Basel’s political center. At the time, the city council determined if a town would be Catholic or Protestant.

On February 8, 1529, the council hesitated to banish the Catholic faith from the town so the Protestant-minded citizens put up an armed demonstration and started a riot smashing all the statues and stained glass windows in the Catholic Churches.

The Catholic councilors and priests fled. I find it interesting that the general public was so passionate about what religion their city was as well as the intolerance of the other side.
Finally, there is the main attraction of the city, the Basler Munster. I rounded a corner and the huge edifice literally took my breath away.

With its impressive red sandstone and colorful roof tiles, its two slim towers and the cross shaped intersection of the main roots, the building is a distinctive feature of the cityscape. Before the Reformation, the Munster was the bishop’s cathedral along with a cathedral chapter with dozens of clergymen employed there.
Luther can’t pass up an opportunity to preach so he climbed up into the pulpit to try it out.

The stone communion table dates back to Reformation times and now lies at the center of the nave.

Built between 1019 and 1500 in the Romanesque and Gothic Style, I can only imagine how common people would have been in awe of the beauty of the stain glass windows and the vast size of the building itself.

During the Reformation in 1529, this became a Reformed Church and remains that way until this day. Luther and I (and a 30 lb. backpack) climbed the narrow stairs up the tower to get this view. Talk about a workout!



There is a cloister attached to the cathedral where the living quarters of first the Catholic priests and later rich merchants would live. Along the halls were epitaphs of the rich and famous. This one is for the Mayer, University Rector, and the great Reformer Oecolampadius. Inscribed with a Latin motto in the spirit of humanism is a Reformation saying, “If honor, good deeds and skills were any help, none of these three would be dead.”

Speaking of Oecolampadius (I’m just going to abbreviate his name to O.), he was the most famous Reformer living in Basel at the 1500’s not counting Erasmus. A statue of him holding the Bible commemorates his accomplishments.

After becoming a priest and collaborating with Erasmus on the first edition of the Greek original text of the New Testament, he was called to Basel permanently to be the professor of theology at the University. After being exposed to Luther’s writings, he adopted the Reformed ways. As the main pastor of the Basel St. Martin’s Church,

he started to teach and preach in German instead of Latin for the common person to understand. Although he was highly educated, he was not a born leader, choosing to work behind the scenes. In 1529 (the year Basel officially became Reformed), he joined Zwingli at the Marburg Colloquy which was an attempt to solve the conflicts between Luther and the Swiss Reformers. Unfortunately, they could not come to an agreement on the Eucharist and parted ways.
     Overall it was a wonderful day that only took 5 hours so there was plenty of time to hop on a train to Strasbourg. But not without seeing the impressive 14th century Spalen gate

 and the iconic Rhine Bridge built in 1225 seen in most photos of Basel.

Luther and I had a great first day of our adventure together. Strasbourg awaits us tomorrow.

  Come Travel with Us for the Birthday Party! 

Martin Luther and I are traveling to his and his buddies old stomping grounds! As part of my doctorate program at Columbia Theological Seminary, I’m taking the travel seminar to Germany celebrating the 500th anniversary of Luther nailing the 95 thesis to the door of Wittenberg church (or so legend has it). I’m leaving two days early to spend time in Basel, Switzerland where Erasmus and the O Reformer (whose name I can’t spell or pronounce) influenced the church in their own ways, as well as Strasbourg, France where Bucer, Capito, and even Calvin himself preached and taught. Then I’ll head to Berlin to catch up with the class where we will spend 8 days walking in Luther’s footsteps and 2 days walking in Bonhoeffer’s footsteps. Afterward, Luther and I will fly down to Geneva to explore Calvin’s hometown and then travel through the Swiss Alps to Zurich to pay homage to Zwingli before heading back home. It will be 17 days total, and it all begins tomorrow after an overnight flight.

So come join me! I hope to blog as much as possible to share the stories and pictures of the trip with anyone who is interested. I’ve had the chance to read three books, several articles and watch a few movies in addition to a couple papers and a Reformation sermon series to get ready for the trip. I have lots of Information on the Reformation. Feel free to catch up on Sermons 1 and 2 (Sept. 17 and 24) if you missed them at https://youtu.be/Eb9-mV8XUBQ (sermon starts at 27:15) and https://youtu.be/UXGcGzekGuQ (sermon starts at 30:00). The first gives an overview of the context of the Reformation and the second attempts to condense a semester’s worth of Reformed Theology in one sermon. Hope you can be part of commemorating this world changing event. Happy 500th Birthday, Reformation! 

Shining Light in the Darkness

            As a child, I knew Christmas was just around the corner when my dad dragged out the ladder with an entangled mass of wire and bulbs, and nail by nail outlined our two story house with Christmas lights. Christmas lights are so beautiful whether hung outside on the edges of roofs or around a Christmas tree. In the darkest of nights, those lights provide comfort, serenity, and peace. More than ever, I’m looking forward to hanging up my Christmas lights this year. More than ever, I need a little more comfort, serenity, and peace.

            November has been a heart wrenching month for this country. It began with heightened political rhetoric, rancor, and divisiveness as we approached the election. Many were looking forward to after the election when this divisiveness would subside. Unfortunately, it only got worse. While I was saddened by the tone of the political campaigns and the ugliness of many supporters of both of these candidates, I’m absolutely heart-broken over the aftermath and response to the elections. That’s not a partisan statement. It’s not a comment on the result of the election itself. I am speaking to our response as a country to the election results and the darkness of hatred that has intensified in our land.

Many have used this election as perceived permission to act upon the hate they feel is justified, although the President-elect in a 60 Minutes interview told perpetrators to, “Stop it.” Between Wednesday, November 9, the day after the presidential election, and the morning of Monday, November 14, the Southern Poverty Law Center collected 437 reports of hateful intimidation and harassment. That’s just in 5 days. That’s just what was reported. The stories of hatred, racism, and xenophobia are horrendous. Swastikas painted in Jewish neighborhoods. “Trump Nation Whites Only” written on a banner outside an Episcopal church that held a Latino worship service. “Kill Blacks” scrawled on an elementary school wall. Trump supporters beaten by protestors. Elementary school kids chanting, “Build that wall” to their weeping Latino classmates. A friend of mine’s adopted daughter from Guatemala asking her mom if she was going to be deported because of comments made at school. The stories go on and on and on.

Lest I think I need not worry about this hatred invading Virginia Beach, a local pastor shared with me that a childcare worker stopped into the 7-11 a mile from the church I serve to pick up cold medicine the week after the elections. In the store, a man berated her with racist slurs and hate filled sentiments until he was finally escorted out of the store. She was understandably left shaken and scared. Virginia Beach is not exempt from the darkness of hatred permeating this country.

The Vision Statement at the church I serve says we are “Sent to Grow, Shine, and Love.” In the midst of the hatred, the darkness, the racism that has been unleashed in the public realm since the elections, will you shine Christ’s light? Will you choose to follow God's command to "do justice, love kindness, and walk humbly with our God?” As the prophet Amos proclaimed, our call is to "hate evil, love good, and establish justice at the city gate." Our neighbors are hurting, fearful, and uncertain. How do we love our neighbors as ourselves? As the poet and activist Alice Walker asked in the wake of the election, "Do we turn on others, or towards others?" I believe turning towards one another in love is the calling of our faith, the calling of Jesus.
          As I drag out the ladder with an entangled mass of wire and bulbs, and nail by nail outline my house this year, I look forward to a little more light in my neighborhood and a little less darkness. My prayer for this Advent season is to ask for guidance in how I can shine Christ’s light a little brighter, because darkness and light cannot coexist. How can I love a little more visibly? How can I reach out a little farther? How can I combat the hate with love? Martin Luther King Jr. said, “Darkness cannot drive out darkness: only light can do that. Hate cannot drive out hate: only love can do that.” May each of us drive out hate with love. May each of us drive out darkness by shining the light of Christ. And even more than seasonal Christmas lights, Christ’s light will bring lasting and much needed comfort, serenity, and peace.

The Work of Christmas

For many of us, Christmas is now long gone. Kids are back in school. Work has resumed. The routine has cranked back up. And we are now planning another year. But the Christmas season (the 12 days of Christmas) actually lasts until tomorrow, January 6, when we celebrate Epiphany. Epiphany reminds us about the wisemen who followed a star to worship the newborn King. But what happens after Epiphany? What lasting impact does Christmas have on us the rest of the year?

I am reminded of a wonderful poem by theologian Howard Thurman. This time of the year I lift up this poem as a way to celebrate and live Christmas the whole year through. May we each engage in the work of Christmas every day.